Be social!
Caring for your Cat or Kitten
Over the years we have had to deal with several issues we knew nothing about. Here, we hope you and your feline companions can benefit from what we have learned. Please remember that we are NOT veterinarians. These answers are based on our personal experiences and may not apply to all cats. If you are unsure about something regarding your cat, please talk to your veterinarian.
Why did my cat stop using the litter
box?
How should I introduce my new cat to my home?
Do I need to have my cat declawed to protect my furniture?
Why is my cat in a bad mood all the time?
What should I feed my cat?
I think my cat is pregnant. What do I do?
Why does my cat have green goop in its eyes and nose?
Q: Why did my cat stop using the litter box?
A: Many cats come to us because their owners are fed-up with the cat peeing outside the litter box. At the first sign of urination outside the box, take your cat to your veterinarian. There is a strong chance he has a bladder or urinary tract infection. When these infections are present, they can cause extreme pain during urination, just as they do in humans. Cats begin to associate this pain with being in the litter box. The next logical thing for them to do is try to find an area where they can pee without hurting. Simple anitbiotics and plenty of fluids should clear the infection within 7-10 days and you will be happily scooping litter once more.
If your vet has determined your cat does not have a bladder infection, the problem could be behavioral. Your cat may be trying to tell you he is unhappy about something. Determine if there have been any recent changes in the home, such as new family members or new animals. In these cases the problem usually resolves itself once the cat adapts to the change. In some cases, the cat may need behavior-altering redirection to help him adapt to the change. Talk to your vet for help with this.
If you have a male cat, it is possible he is spraying. Spraying is used to mark territory, much like dogs marking trees on their walk. In most cats this can be resolved by having the cat neutered, as this reduces the hormones that control the urge to be territorial. However, some cats, especially in multi-cat households, will spray even after being neutered. This can be reduced by adding litter boxes to your home (one for every two cats) and keeping them clean. The boxes should be cleaned daily and bleached weekly.
It's also possible your cat doesn't like the type of litter you are using. Try different types to see if one is preferred over others. Cats generally do not like scented litters. If you have an older cat or a cat with an injury/painful condition, you may need to buy a litter box that is lower to the ground, as boxes with higher entrances can be challenging. It is also important to thoroughly clean the area that has been urinated on. Cat urine has strong concentrations of ammonia, which they can smell even when you can't. Buy a cleaner that has been specially formulated to attack this, such as Nature's Miracle or Urine-Off.
Q: How should I introduce my new cat to my home?
A: Before bringing a new cat into your home, be sure to have your vet test him/her for feline leukemia and insure that all of your cats are up-to-date on their shots.
Often, people are under the assumption that cats are independent animals and won't need any time to adjust to a new environment. This is very, very false. A cat, just like any animal, has extremely sensitive smell, sight, and hearing. A new environment can be terrifying for some cats. Before bringing your new cat home, make it a small temporary room, such as a bathroom, that it will live in for a few days. It will need a litter box, bed, food, and water. When the cat arrives home, place it immediately in this room. Stay with her for a few minutes and give her encouragement, then leave her alone for an hour or so. During this time she will explore her new home and become accustomed to the scents of all occupants in the house.
The amount of time your cat will need to spend in her room will depend on her age and personality. Kittens tend to adapt quickly and are ready to leave the room between a few hours to the next day. Older cats may need more time, sometimes up to a week, though we have found this is rare. It is important to pay attention to your cat's behavior. When you open the door, is she next to it? Does she peer out curiously? These are signs that she is ready to see the rest of your house.
The most important thing is to not force her out of her room before she is ready. We have found with many cats that those who didn't get enough time in their room had trouble adjusting fully to the rest of the house and its other residents. Those that choose their exit time tend to explore happily and are more willing to meet and greet the other animals. If you open the door to her room and she does not leave the room within 30 seconds, close the door and try again later. Be sure to go in and spend lots of time with your cat during this time so that she becomes accustomed to your voice and touch. As she begins to trust you, and sees you coming in and out through the door, she will become curious about what else is behind the door and leave on her own accord.
The most important relationship you can have with your cat is trust. Putting her in a scary situation after she has determined you are her person will cause her to doubt your commitment to her.
Q: Do I need to have my cat declawed to protect my furniture?
A: Having your cat's claws removed is not necessary. In fact, many vets around the country consider the procedure to be inhumane and will not perform it. In order to declaw a cat, the claw has to be cut off at the first knuckle. This creates a large gap between the skin, which is glued back together with surgical glue. The experience can be extremely painful for the cat and may cause behavioral problems, including not using the litter box. The clay litter is abrasive on their paws after surgery - would you use a toilet if it hurt you every time you sat down?
From our experience, there are several things you can do around your home to prevent your cat from clawing your furniture. Cardboard scratchers are extremely effective for almost all cats. You can encourage your cat to begin using it by enticing it with some sprinkled catnip or treats. After a couple of these sessions, he will use the scratcher on his own. Other scratchers are also available, made of carpet or rope, which can be hung from doorknobs or placed on a shelf. Other methods include nail covers, which are plastic covers placed over each claw, and sticky tape, which is placed on the parts of your furniture being clawed. The tape is uncomfortable for the cat to claw, and he will quickly learn to avoid that site. Finally, you can buy a pheromone spray that repels your cat from a certain area. The spray is odorless to you, but very potent for your cat. These are all safe and efficient ways to protect your home while keeping your cat's claws where they belong.
Q: Why is my cat in a bad mood all the time?
A: If your cat has a sudden or even gradual shift in behavior, you should take her to the vet. Most often the cause is physiological. Be sure to specifically ask your vet to check your cat's teeth. Gingivitis and stomatitis are common in cats, and can cause infected teeth. However, the extent of the problem in cats has only recently been discovered, and many vets do not think to do a thorough check of the mouth. Sometimes the area is so painful the cat must be sedated in order to perform an oral exam. Cats are masters at hiding pain and may only show signs of pain once it has gotten so severe that they can no longer eat. See our holistic therapy page about the use of laser therapy as a treatment for stomatitis.
Q: What should I feed my cat?
A: It's the age-old debate: dry food or wet food? Advocates of dry food insist that it is better for the cats' teeth because it breaks down tartar. Wet food advocates believe their food has more nutrients and makes their cats happier. What's the answer? We think both are true. Our cats are given several different brands of dry food to choose from, which is available throughout the day. Twice a day they are given a mixture of dry and wet food to provide extra nutrition and hydration.
Generic pet foods are usually not nutrient-rich and are not easily digested and absorbed. Recent studies have found that puppies and kittens that were raised on a generic pet food had a higher incidence of illness, improper growth, and other physical abnormalities. The most important thing to check when deciding on a cat food is the ingredient list. Look at the very first ingredient: if it is not a complete meat product such as chicken, beef, lamb, etc., it is not the best food for your cat! Many foods list a meat by-product or even grains as the first ingredient. This will not benefit your cat's health.
We also supplement our food with clovite, a high-potency natural vitamin. It is often sold for horses but can be used in several species. We have found that are cats have softer, shinier fur, and two of our cats with severe digestive problems do not have those issues while taking clovite.
Q: I think my cat is pregnant. What do I do?
A: The first step, of course, is to take her to your vet. He or she will give you detailed instructions on how to care for your cat throughout her pregnancy and nursing period. This may include a special diet or nutritional supplements. During this time you should start trying to find potential homes for the kittens once they reach 6 weeks of age. Having homes determined ahead of time will reduce the stress of trying to do it when you have a litter of kittens running around the house.
Your pregnant cat will need a special space that will be for her and her newborn kittens. We suggest clearing out a bottom cupboard and laying down several soft blankets. It needs to be in an area with light household traffic and noise. When she goes into labor, it is important to leave her alone and not attempt to help her. You may watch from a distance, but if she appears agitated by your presence, you need to leave the area.
By instinct, she will know how to clean her kittens and nurse them. It is extremely important that the kittens get their mother's milk. It contains colostrum, which provides essential proteins vital to the immune system later in life. Once all of the kittens have been born, cleaned, and had a good first meal, you can attempt to approach your cat. More than likely she will be accepting of you, as her stress hormones have depleted significantly. However, do not touch the kittens until you have first petted and talked to her. If she shows no signs of aggression, slowly reach towards the kittens, watching her reaction closely. Only very rarely will your cat attempt to hurt you in the protection of her kittens, but sometimes a mother's instinct can be unpredictable. If you are able to touch the kittens with her approval, you should be able to carefully hold them - taking them out of her sight, however, may create undue stress.
The kittens should remain with their mother for at least 6 weeks. They may start eating soft food by 4 weeks, and sometimes even dry kitten food. However, the socialization and teaching they get from their siblings and mother in weeks 5-6 seem to be essential to adult sociable behavior. We have found that orphaned kittens that grow up without a similar-aged cat to play with have difficulties associating with other cats later in life and do not play as much as kittens that had siblings to play with.
Q: Why does my cat have green goop in its eyes and nose?
A: We are not veterinarians, but he most likely has an upper-respiratory infection, which, unfortunately, is very common and contagious to other cats. If you have a multiple-cat household, immediately quarantine your sick cat and thoroughly clean any water and food dishes he shares with other cats. Separating the cat from the group will also allow you to closely monitor how much he is eating and drinking, important factors your vet will want to know about.
You will also need to completely change out your litter box and wash it. URI's range in severity. Watch your cat for a couple of days. If his symptoms stay the same or get better, he will most likely get over the infection on his own. If his symptoms worsen, you need to call your vet to obtain antibiotics. Usually URI's will not develop into anything more. However, just as in humans, it can develop into a more serious infection quickly. Watch very carefully for dehydration (lift the skin of his neck and let go - if the skin remains raised or descends slowly, your cat is dehydrated and your vet may need to administer subcutaneous fluids).
Sometimes the mucus being excreted from his eyes and nose dries and accumulates on his face. Take soft cloth dipped in warm water and gently rub it off. Often when cats have a URI, they stop eating. This is not because they have lost their appetite. Cats do not eat anything they cannot smell. So, when their nose is plugged up, they don't perceive anything as food. If your cat is not eating, it is important you try to entice him to eat. Very stinky cat food (such as tuna) or baby food often do the trick. Be sure to give him lots of love and attention during this time. Keep in mind that his skin or muscles may be tender, just as ours are when we feel sick, so you may not be able to pet or scratch him as hard as you usually do.
